What Stitch To Use For Seams?

Are you ever confused about what stitch to use for seams? Well, look no further! In this article, we will explore different types of stitches that are perfect for securing seams in your sewing projects. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, finding the right stitch can make a world of difference in the durability and overall appearance of your creations. So, let’s dive right in and discover the perfect stitch for your seams!

1. Common Types of Seams

1.1 Plain Seam

The plain seam is the most basic and commonly used type of seam in sewing. It is created by joining two fabric pieces with a straight stitch and then pressing the seam allowance open or to one side. Plain seams are often used in garments with light to medium weight fabrics and can be finished with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch to prevent fraying.

1.2 French Seam

French seams are known for their clean and professional finish. They are often used when creating delicate or sheer garments. This seam involves stitching the fabric pieces wrong sides together with a narrow seam allowance, trimming the excess fabric, and then folding the fabric right sides together and stitching again. This encloses the raw edges within the seam, ensuring a neat appearance on both the inside and outside of the garment.

1.3 Flat-Felled Seam

Flat-felled seams are commonly found in jeans and other heavy-duty garments. They are durable and provide strength to the seam. This type of seam involves sewing the fabric pieces right sides together with a wide seam allowance, trimming one side of the seam allowance, and then folding the remaining seam allowance over the trimmed edge and stitching it down. The finished result is a flat seam with no raw edges visible.

1.4 Bound Seam

Bound seams are used to add a decorative or contrasting element to a garment while also finishing the raw edges. They involve enclosing the raw edges of the fabric within bias tape, which is then stitched into place. Bound seams can be used on various fabric weights and are often seen in formal or tailored garments.

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1.5 Mock Flat-Felled Seam

The mock flat-felled seam is a simplified version of the traditional flat-felled seam. It provides a similar aesthetic but requires less sewing steps. This seam involves sewing the fabric pieces right sides together with a regular seam, and then topstitching on one side of the seam, close to the edge. The result is a seam that resembles the look of a flat-felled seam without the need for folding and stitching down the seam allowance.

2. Factors to Consider

2.1 Fabric Type

The type of fabric you are working with is an important factor to consider when selecting seams and stitches. Lighter weight fabrics such as silk or chiffon may require delicate seams like French seams to prevent fraying and ensure a clean finish. On the other hand, heavier fabrics like denim or canvas may benefit from stronger seams like flat-felled seams for durability.

2.2 Seam Type

Each seam type has its own unique characteristics and uses. It is important to consider the construction of the garment and the desired aesthetic when choosing the seam type. For example, if you want a clean and invisible seam on a delicate fabric, a French seam would be a good choice.

2.3 Seam Functionality

Consider the purpose and functionality of the seam. Is it purely decorative, or does it need to withstand stress and movement? For seams that need extra strength, like those found in areas of tension such as shoulders or armholes, a combination of reinforced stitches and seam types may be necessary.

2.4 Machine vs. Hand Sewing

Deciding whether to use a machine or hand sew your seams depends on various factors such as your skill level, time constraints, and the fabric’s nature. While machines offer speed and efficiency, hand sewing allows for greater control and precision. Delicate fabrics, intricate details, or couture sewing may call for hand stitching, while everyday garments can often be stitched by machine.

2.5 Garment Design

The design of the garment itself should influence your choice of seam type and stitch. Consider factors such as darts, pleats, and gathers, as well as the overall silhouette. Flat-felled seams, for example, work well on garments with a structured or tailored look, while French seams lend themselves to flowing or lightweight designs.

3. Choosing the Right Stitch

3.1 Straight Stitch

The straight stitch is the most basic and commonly used stitch in garment construction. It is ideal for simple seaming and joining fabric layers together. It can be used with a variety of seam types and is particularly suitable for woven fabrics. However, it may not be the best choice for stretch fabrics or areas that require extra strength.

3.2 Backstitch

The backstitch is used to secure the beginning and end of a seam, preventing it from coming undone. It involves sewing a few stitches forward, then reversing and sewing backward over the same area. Backstitching is commonly used in combination with other stitches and is essential for seam reinforcement.

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3.3 Zigzag Stitch

The zigzag stitch is versatile and can be used for various purposes, including finishing raw edges, creating stretchable seams, and preventing fraying. It is commonly used on woven and knit fabrics to provide flexibility and durability. When using a zigzag stitch, it is important to adjust the stitch width and length according to your fabric and desired outcome.

3.4 Overlock Stitch

Overlock stitches, also known as serged stitches, are typically created using a serger machine. They are used to finish raw edges, prevent fraying, and create seams that have both strength and flexibility. An overlock stitch trims the excess fabric while simultaneously enclosing the raw edges with multiple threads, resulting in a clean and professional finish.

3.5 Basting Stitch

Basting stitches are temporary, long stitches used for fitting and holding fabric pieces together before permanent stitching. They are useful for adjusting the fit of a garment or temporarily securing details such as pleats or pockets. Basting stitches can be easily removed once their purpose is fulfilled, allowing for adjustments without damaging the fabric.

4. Stitch Selection Guide for Different Seams

4.1 Plain Seam – Straight Stitch

For a basic plain seam, a simple straight stitch is generally sufficient. Use a stitch length appropriate for your fabric type, ensuring that it securely joins the fabric pieces without causing puckering or strain. Optionally, finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch to prevent fraying.

4.2 French Seam – Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch

To achieve a clean finish both inside and outside of the garment, use a straight stitch to sew the fabric pieces wrong sides together, with a narrow seam allowance. Trim the excess fabric, and then fold and press the fabric right sides together. Sew another straight stitch close to the folded edge to enclose the raw edges. Adding a zigzag stitch as an additional line of reinforcement is optional.

4.3 Flat-Felled Seam – Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch

Create a flat-felled seam by sewing the fabric pieces right sides together with a wide seam allowance. Trim one side of the seam allowance, and then fold the remaining seam allowance over the trimmed edge. Stitch along the folded edge to secure the seam. To prevent fraying, finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch.

4.4 Bound Seam – Straight Stitch and Overlock Stitch

When creating a bound seam, sew the fabric pieces right sides together with a straight stitch, and then press the seam open. Next, fold and press bias tape over the raw edges of the seam allowance. Stitch the folded tape in place using an overlock stitch to secure the bound seam and prevent fraying.

4.5 Mock Flat-Felled Seam – Straight Stitch

Achieve the look of a flat-felled seam without the added steps by using a straight stitch to sew the fabric pieces right sides together. Topstitch close to the seam line to create the appearance of a flat-felled seam.

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5. Additional Tips and Techniques

5.1 Securing Seam Allowances

To prevent seam allowances from shifting or unraveling, consider adding reinforcing stitches or using stay tapes. Reinforcing stitches such as staystitching or understitching can stabilize curves and edges, preventing distortion during sewing or wearing. Stay tapes are narrow strips of woven or non-woven interfacing that can be applied to seam allowances for added stability.

5.2 Pressing Seams

Proper pressing of seams is essential for achieving professional results. Pressing helps set the stitches, shape the fabric, and create a crisp finish. Use a pressing ham, ironing board, or tailor’s ham to press the seams open or to one side. Always follow the fabric’s care instructions and use the appropriate heat settings to avoid damaging the fabric.

5.3 Finishing Raw Edges

To prevent fraying and give your seams a clean and polished look, consider finishing raw edges with an appropriate stitch or technique. Options include using a zigzag stitch, overlock stitch, pinking shears, or bias binding. Choose the method that best suits your fabric’s weight and desired finish.

5.4 Testing on Scrap Fabric

Before starting a new project or using a particular stitch or seam on your garment, it is always a good idea to test it on a scrap piece of fabric. This allows you to adjust the stitch length, tension, and settings on your sewing machine, ensuring that the chosen stitch and seam combination work well with your fabric and achieve the desired result.

6. Troubleshooting Stitch-related Issues

6.1 Skipped Stitches

If your stitches are skipping or not forming properly, there may be a few possible causes. Check that the needle is inserted correctly and is the appropriate type and size for the fabric. Ensure the needle is not bent or dull and replace it if necessary. Adjusting the tension, rethreading the machine, or cleaning out any lint or debris from the bobbin area may also help resolve skipped stitch issues.

6.2 Uneven Tension

Uneven tension can result in stitches that are too tight or too loose. To correct this, start by rethreading both the top thread and the bobbin thread, ensuring they are properly seated in the tension discs and guides. If the problem persists, adjust the tension dial gradually, making small changes until the stitches are balanced and evenly tensioned.

6.3 Puckering

Puckered seams are often caused by excessive tension, incorrect stitch length, or fabric that is not properly supported. Check that the fabric is adequately stabilized, and adjust the tension and stitch length as needed. Additionally, using a walking foot or sewing with tissue paper under the fabric can help prevent puckering.

6.4 Breaking Thread

Thread breakage can occur due to various factors, including incorrect tension, a dull or misaligned needle, or using the wrong type or weight of thread. Make sure the thread is not too tightly wound on the spool, and use a suitable needle and thread combination for your fabric. Check the tension settings and adjust as needed to prevent excessive strain on the thread.

6.5 Seam Raveling

If your seams are prone to raveling or fraying, try modifying your stitch and seam finishes. Using a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch to finish the raw edges can help prevent unraveled seams. Alternatively, consider using a serger or applying fray check or seam sealant to the raw edges after stitching.

7. Conclusion

Choosing the right seam type and stitch for your sewing projects is essential for achieving the desired results in terms of both functionality and aesthetics. By understanding the various types of seams, stitches, and factors to consider, you can confidently tackle any sewing project, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist. Remember to test your stitches and techniques on scrap fabric before starting your project and troubleshoot any stitching issues along the way. Happy sewing!